SAINT LAURENT COLLECTION MEN’S WINTER 2026 BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO

From the beginning, a simplicity of silhouette – as if created with a few pencil strokes – has defined the Saint Laurent ideal.

The light, the reveal, the promise of yet another Parisian morning dawning: It’s much more than a picture perfect, post card fantasy of Paris; it is a reality experienced every single day in rooms and homes right across the city. With it also comes the story of all that.

With straightforward pieces free of superfluous details, Anthony Vaccarello’s Winter 2025 women’s collection for the house happened to us before dawn, put into clear focus as night gives way to morning. It’s this moment of liminal time, intimate and affirms this founding ethos. Instead of speaking through ornament or padding, fabrics and precise construction shape unique to us all, which manifests itself in Saint Laurent creative director Anthony Vaccarello’s Winter 2026 collection.

It explores intimacy, vulnerability, and an eroticism which embraces personal expression over sensationalised spectacle. What emerges the garments. Pure forms and volumes are derived from construction and cut is Vaccarello’s continuing questioning of what maleness and masculinity can mean at the house of Saint Laurent.
Ample stone-washed skirts worn with leather blousons create ambiguity, while a concise palette – saturated versions of Vaccarello looked to the seminal 1956 James Baldwin novel Giovanni’s Room as his starting point for his Winter 2026 collection. signature Saint Laurent colors – fills out the collection’s clear lines.

To achieve a novel, more technical texture, stretch fabrics are paired with guipure, couture fabrics are distressed, and cigaline silk printed with iconic animal and floral motifs is submerged in silicone.

Baldwin’s novel, groundbreaking and searing in its depiction of sexual attraction and challenge to conventional, bourgeois, post-war masculinity. Vaccarello was particularly drawn to the psychological and emotional intonations created by the tension
 of David leaving his lover Giovanni’s Paris room one last time at the early dawn, exchanging his desire, his yearnings, for all that lies ahead. In response, Vaccarello thought of the classic Saint Laurent trope of the morning after the night before; the move from unclothed to clothed, unbuttoned to buttoned, the ritual of transforming ourselves from our most naked selves to being dressed to re-enter the world.
As a counterweight to the clothes’ minimalism, pointed shoes are embellished with a satin square rose. Accessorizing jewelry is made of rock crystal, a lucky stone favored by Yves Saint Laurent.

Vaccarello expresses all of this with his Winter 2026 Saint Laurent collection. He sketches out a lean, sinuous silhouette, The set – a grand onyx oval – reflects the collection’s otherworldly mineral feel, as glowing walls suggest both impenetrability and unmined depth, their rich patterns a snapshot of human complexity simultaneously fragile and strong. Soft, crumpled textures show the passage of time; what we’ve worn, what we’ve loved. Sharp shoulders cloak vulnerability, without denying it.

The frame of the wearer ’s clothing is highlighted by the manner with which it is revealed and concealed, eroticised without ever being exhibitionist. The house’s signature smoking takes on an almost armour
like strength, vanquishing uncertainty and the unknown. And high boots ground the look, bringing it to earth.

Standing over all of this, Vaccarello choses to use that most Saint Laurent of colours, black, to realise his Winter 2026, chosen for its classicism and its iconoclasm.