SAINT LAURENT SUMMER 2027 MENSWEAR COLLECTION BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO

“Nobody is trying to seduce you. What makes them seductive is that they do not need to.”

With his Summer 2027 Men’s collection, Anthony Vaccarello considers that very idea: our constant need for more drama, more noise, more attention—and what happens when we choose to turn away from it. It is refusal, perhaps, that most powerfully fuels desire. Across 40 looks, Vaccarello explores restraint as seduction—and the luxury of absence. Saint Laurent tailoring proposes a new kind of discernment: a three-button jacket cut higher on the body, worn with narrow flat-fronted or softly pleated trousers; familiar pieces—the waistcoat, the ribbed V-neck sweater—elevated through precision and proportion; athletic blousons rendered unexpectedly delicate in technical taffeta. The shoes are sculpted, sheer and high-gloss. Gold becomes a central gesture within the collection. Not as an obvious symbol of luxury, but as a transformation of the utilitarian trench into something extraordinary while remaining practical. Vaccarello’s palette is similarly grounded: grey, brown, black and beige interrupted by flashes of orange, ochre, claret, lime, powder blue and shimmering gold.

Throughout the collection, Vaccarello looked toward figures who made restraint a virtue and omission a form of expression: Marguerite Duras, whose writing found meaning in what remained unsaid; Tina Chow, whose legendary style embraced reduction rather than excess; and the fictional Mr. Ripley, whose outward composure concealed a far more complicated interior life. Summer 2027 Men’s is not simply a rejection of stylistic excess. It is a rejection of our need to always know, always speak, always see. We have forgotten the pleasure of the unknown, the unseen and the unspoken.

This idea extends into the presentation itself. Models move through Cloud #07156, Fujiko Nakaya’s immersive fog installation, in a sixteen-minute choreographed performance. Emerging, disappearing and reappearing within a luminous landscape of mist, they become part of the work itself. The installation is not a backdrop. It is an active participant in the collection’s narrative—another expression of absence, presence and desire.

@titinapenzini